Description

Rolex Precision Chronometers are very special watches, due to the precision of their movements which were designed to meet the highest standards of accuracy and reliability for their day. This was independently tested and certified by an official Observatory, usually Swiss or British, such as Neuchatel Observatory, Geneva Observatory, or Kew Observatory in London. Tests of the accuracy and reliability of individual watches were carried out over numerous weeks in 6 positions and over a range of temperatures. Only individual watches which passed these very strict tests qualified and were granted permission to be classed as “Chronometer grade” watches. Furthermore, each year special Prizes were awarded to the manufacturer who submitted the most accurate wristwatch, and the manufacturer who submitted the highest number of watches to qualify as Chronometers. Manufacturers competed fiercely for these prizes as they were highly coveted and publicised. Just as with the motor manufacturers associated with Formula 1 Grand Prix winners of yesteryear and today, the publicity was priceless. Rolex, Omega, Longines and Zenith were the most successful manufacturers in submitting watches which passed these tests and also winning prizes as outright winners.

During the 1930s and ’40s, Rolex was also undoubtedly the most successful watch manufacturer in courting publicity. It managed this by being on hand, or wrist, during many record-breaking events. For example, swimming across the English Channel (1927), world automobile speed record (300mph, 1935), breaking the sound barrier in 1947 and the conquest of Everest in 1952.

No matter how pre-planned or well-orchestrated these events were, one cannot blame Rolex for building its brand. In fact, the company was creative and ahead of the game in capitalising on every event and opportunity.  Some fascinating books have been written about these events, which were just as amazing at the time as the many modern advances in hand-held/mobile technology today. A brief section covers some of these events, as well as some of the history of Rolex, in our FAQs section found via the link at the bottom left of this page.

Rolex Precision Chronometers remain as equally prized today as they were when they were made. Today Rolex produces more Chronometer watches than any other manufacturer and indeed it has done so for quite a few decades. To be classed as a Chronometer today, watches are required to be submitted to an independent Swiss body called the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, for testing over 15 days at a range of temperatures.

Here we have a beautiful and amazingly well cared for example of a super rare 18ct Gold Rolex Precision Chronometer from circa 1955. This oversize example was a very large watch for the period at 36mm, excluding the crown and is one of the earliest Rolex Precisions we have seen.

This watch has the ‘Metropolitan’ milled bezel also often known as the ‘Thunderbird’ bezel.

This watch has just completed a full restoration by our team, including the movement, watch case and watch dial. This involves three different sets of skills. Our watchmaker has restored and serviced the watch movement, our watch case-maker has sympathetically restored the case and our dial restorer has restored the dial.

The Dial

The Rolex ‘Metropolitan’ dial is a timeless design which we would all have no other way. The applied gilt batons and original ‘Dauphine’ hands over an ivory cream dial, all elevate this watch to something quite special. Once again, pure simple style and classic timeless elegance is a perfect example of how vintage beats modern, hands down, every time!

The dial, Metropolitan case and straight lugs lend the watch something of a Patek Phillipe Calatrava look.

The Rolex Coronet crowns the dial which is signed ‘Rolex’ with ‘Officially Certified Chronometer’ below and ‘Swiss Made’ at the very bottom of the dial.

This is the original dial which has been sympathetically and beautifully restored to the highest standards by our dial restorers, who are regarded the best in the UK.

The Watch Case

The 18ct solid yellow gold case measures 36mm in diameter, excluding the Rolex nipple crown, making this one of the rare oversized Rolex dress watches.

This is an 18ct Gold Rolex Metropolitan Precision and model reference 8952. It is a very rare watch indeed, especially in such impeccable condition. The milled bezel carries very fine radial grooves along with larger marks at each hour, which accentuate the hours around the dial.

Bezels are always prone to damage and particularly those with any kind of decoration. However, the bezel here really is in excellent condition and not overly polished which is unusual, to say the least! This, along with the clean and nicely polished case-back, indicates the watch has been well cared for and seen very little use.

The straight lugs are also notable as they are beautifully elegant in design. They are very nicely swept-back, raising the watch a little, making it sit higher on the wrist. Lastly, the beautiful case-back is also in amazing condition and just like the rest of the case, carries no scratches, dings or any other damage visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case-back is the early Rolex scroll signature, as well as Swiss Geneva 18ct hallmarks. The case also carries the number 448 along with the Rolex model reference number 8952.

The watch case is very clean and all its lines are very distinct, indicating only very light hand-polishing. The watch shows only the very slightest signs of wear with no scratches, dings or other marks visible to the naked eye. The case has only required some very gentle hand polishing to bring it back to the condition you see here.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Movement

As can be seen, the high-grade Rolex Calibre 1210, Chronometer 18 Jewel hand-wound movement is in incredibly clean and sparkling condition. It has just completed an overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker and winds, sets and runs perfectly.

Following its service, the movement was calibrated and final tested and was found to be running arrow straight at +4 seconds per day! This is truly excellent and has been checked on our electronic watch timegrapher. This movement also has an excellent 58 hour power reserve when fully wound.

The Strap and Buckle

The strap fitted is a high-quality brown Alligator strap, with a gold plated Rolex buckle which we feel suits the watch handsomely.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, all the numbers and markings on watch date the watch to circa 1955.

The watch comes complete with a Rolex presentation box, as shown.

In Conclusion

This is a rare and first class example of a highly collectible and highly practical vintage watch from horology’s most famous name, which will provide an excellent financial investment as well as something to use, wear, treasure and enjoy! It will make an excellent evening wear dress watch as well as a practical highly accurate and reliable timepiece to use on an everyday basis.

Vintage 18ct gold Rolex ‘Metropolitan’ Precision watches are highly collectible and the rarity of this watch means the value will always remain strong. This watch will make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece and even though vintage Rolex prices have risen markedly recently, we feel fine examples such as this still remain undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage watches expands, availability will become more limited so prices are surely destined to climb ever higher!