Description
Rolex Perpetual automatic watches were almost always made with Oyster cases. However just occasionally, made during the late 1950s, we find a Rolex Perpetual Chronometer in a non-Oyster watch case. These are particularly rare and interesting.
In all other respects, the watch here remains a classic 1950s vintage gold Rolex Perpetual gentleman’s dress watch, featuring a beautiful ivory cream dial, with the sought after 1 – 12 Arabic (standard) hour numerals, matched with the original ‘Leaf’ hands. The Rolex Calibre 1030, 25 Jewel movement is exactly the same as fitted to the Oyster Perpetuals of the period and also as fitted to the Submariner.
This watch also carries the more sought after plain bezel which along with the rest of the case, is in superb condition. Also a 1 – 12 Arabic (standard) numerals dial which is one of the most popular from this period. This watch is immaculate, having been fully restored by ourselves, and is now ready for many more years of faithful service!
The Dial
1950s vintage Rolex dials are, we feel, the most wonderful examples of Rolex style and simple elegance at its best. This particular dial with 1 – 12 Arabic (standard) numerals is particularly hard to find and highly sought after. Here in ivory cream, it contrasts beautifully with the yellow gold case and the applied yellow gilt Rolex Coronet at 12 o’clock. It is full of character and 1950s Rolex charm and the original restored ‘Dauphine’ hands and blued steel centre seconds hand complete the dial perfectly. We feel the absence of a date window only adds to the beauty and perfect symmetry of this dial.
The dial is signed ‘Rolex Perpetual’ with the Rolex Coronet above, and ‘Officially Certified Chronometer’ below.
The lens has been replaced with a new original Rolex part and so it is fresh and scratch-free.
This dial is in stunning condition due to the superb work of our dial restorers. It is simply immaculate. This is the original dial which has been expertly restored to the very highest standards by our dial restorers, considered to be the best in the UK.
The Case
The 9ct yellow gold watch case is totally immaculate and measures 34mm in diameter, excluding the crown. The case has the rarer and more sought after plain bezel, free from any nicks or scratches, which is a rare thing as the bezel is always prone to damage. This all indicates this watch has only seen very light occasional use. It has simply required professional cleaning and very careful and gentle hand-polishing to bring the case back to showroom condition. The case as a whole shows no scratches, dings, damage or signs of over-polishing, visible to the naked eye.
The press-fit case-back is highly polished, of full-thickness and has never been engraved.
Inside the case-back, the markings are all correct for a Rolex watch case made by Shackman, its U.K. case-maker and signed D.S.&S (David Shackman & Sons Ltd) along with the reference number 04104. The case-back also carries London U.K. 9ct hallmarks which date this watch to 1957.
As ever our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.
The Movement
The original high grade ‘Officially Certified Chronometer’ 25 Jewels, 1030 calibre ‘butterfly’ movement is very highly regarded for being particularly accurate, reliable and strong. This movement is known as a ‘butterfly’ movement, due to the lightened rotor which resembles a butterfly wing. Here, it is in sparkling condition and working perfectly following a thorough overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker. This involves dismantling the watch to all its component parts and careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Rolex parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment before final calibration in 5 positions. The watch winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and after final testing and calibration, the movement is running strongly and accurately within +6 seconds/day, which is outstanding for a watch movement of this age! The power reserve of this watch is 42 hours.
The Strap & Buckle
A new, very high-quality black Crocodile strap has been fitted, along with matching gold plated Rolex buckle.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1957.
The Rolex presentation box as shown in the photographs is included in the sale.
In Conclusion
This is a wonderful example of a 1950s vintage Rolex automatic which is ready to wear and very appropriate and practical for regular everyday use. It is a highly collectable timepiece from horology’s most famous name, which will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something to treasure and enjoy! If treated with care, it will make an excellent investment or heirloom piece and even though vintage gold Rolex prices have risen markedly recently, we still feel excellent examples such as this are still undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold Rolex watches continues to expand, prices will continue to climb ever higher.