Description

This watch contains one of Omega’s first automatic movements, initially produced from 1942 to 1949 as the Cal.30.10 RA. This movement was further developed and formed the basis of the 330 series of movements, including the Cal.332 which powered the first Omega Seamaster in 1947-48 and the Cal.342 in 1949 which remained in production until 1955. This highly successful movement with a power reserve of 42 hours became part of a hugely successful family of Omega’s automatic movements with over 1,300,000 produced – 500,000 of which were Chronometers. This series powered many thousands of the early Omega Seamaster and Constellation watches. Indeed, much of the modern-day success of the Omega company we know today can be attributed to this movement.

This watch has an Oversize, 35mm, 18ct yellow gold case.  Typically, during the 1940s and ’50s, gent’s watches started at 30mm in diameter, excluding the crown. The majority were 31 – 33mm and during the 1960s and 70s, sizes were usually to 33 – 34mm. Vintage watches larger than this are referred to as ‘Oversize’ and these are highly sought after because a seemingly small difference in diameter adds significantly to the ‘presence’ of the watch on the wrist. This is because a 1mm increase in diameter, adds over 3mm (3.142) to the circumference of a watch.

This watch also has the most wonderful original two-tone, co-signed Turler dial in sun-bleached yellow and gold. This looks much better face to face than we could possibly capture under studio lights.

The Dial

The dial here is special for a number of reasons. Firstly, it is original, unrestored and untouched. Generally we restore the dials of the watches you see on our website but here, this two-tone yellow and gold dial has aged beautifully, without any significant unsightly damage and gaining a nice relatively even patina.

Secondly, it is a rare double-signed dial. During the period 1940 – 1970, the largest and most established jewellers in any given city were as famous, if not more famous than the major watch brands themselves – at least in their local markets. The most prestigious of these were occasionally allowed, with the expressed agreement of the watch brand itself, to co-sign the dial, as can be seen on this example here. Turler remains one of the most famous Swiss watch retailers to this day, established in 1893 in Bienne, Switzerland and has become one of the largest retailers of high-class watches and jewellery in Switzerland. The company is still owned by the same family, now run by the fifth generation.

This superb two-tone yellow and gold dial is furnished with applied yellow gold ‘baton’ hour indices which are matched with the original ‘leaf’ hands in superb condition. A ‘railtrack’ minutes ring divides the centre yellow section from the outer gold part of the dial.

This large dial is beautifully well-balanced with a subsidiary seconds dial at ‘6’. The dial is typical of the period, so effortlessly classic, elegant and stylish – just the kind of style which will never look out of date or out of place.

The dial catches the light beautifully. In daylight, the centre-main part of the dial changes from a light yellow to a more sunburnt look, while the outer sector of the dial is has a gold satin finish. This is a deeply attractive vintage dial for which the images cannot possibly do justice.

The dial is signed with the early Omega brand and signature with ‘Automatic’ below and then ‘Turler’ below this. ‘Swiss Made’ is also shown at the very bottom of the dial.

The Movement

As discussed above, the Omega Cal.30.10.RA, 17 jewel bumper automatic was one of Omega’s first automatic movements. This was part of the highly successful Calibre 330 series of automatic movements, which became the foundation of Omega’s later collection. This series is directly responsible for Omega’s incredible early success with its Seamaster and Constellation family of watches from the middle of the last century onwards.

Bumper movements use a rotor which automatically winds the watch by gently bouncing backwards and forwards between two bumper springs, caused by the movement of the wearer’s wrist. These watch movements are robust, accurate and reliable making this watch perfectly suitable for both evening and everyday use.

The beryllium bronze movement is in superb condition and is marked ‘Omega’, ‘Swiss’ and ’17 Jewels’ with the Calibre number 30.10 RA and the serial number 10234477 which dates the manufacture of the watch to 1944.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by our vintage Omega specialist watchmaker and the watch winds, runs and sets smoothly and is keeping excellent time. Following its service, it has been calibrated and is currently running arrow straight at +2 seconds/day which is excellent for any watch of this age and has been verified on our electronic timegrapher instrument. The watch also has an excellent power reserve of 42 hours.

The Case

As mentioned above, at 35mm, excluding the Omega crown, this is considered a very large watch by the standards of the 1940s and therefore was considered ‘Oversize’.

The case is of a two-piece construction with a press-fit case-back which is of full thickness and has never been engraved. This is tight-fitting and presses down with a pleasing and reassuring pop. The case profile and overall design carry a good deal of 1940s style with nicely crafted lugs, making the case of obvious high quality and sophistication.

The watch has been very well cared for and after a close inspection has simply required a careful clean and a gentle hand polish to bring it back to its current excellent condition.

Inside the case, all is as expected and correctly signed and branded: ‘Omega Watch Co’, ‘Fab Suisse’ and ‘Swiss Made’ with the case serial number 10528119. It also carries the Omega Geneva Swiss 18ct gold hallmarks and an early Swiss patent mark.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

The watch has been fitted with a very high-quality brown Alligator strap with matching yellow gold-plated Omega buckle (not shown in the images).

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating the watch to 1944.

The hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included in the sale.

In Conclusion

A beautiful example of a top of the range Omega bumper automatic dress watch in 18ct gold. The movement is of a very high grade and on a par with watches far more expensive than this. Indeed when new, this watch would have cost more than the equivalent Rolex. Omega watches are highly collectable and the rarity of this watch means the value will always remain strong.