Longines Cal.27 18ct 1954 Original Two-Tone Unrestored Dial, 36mm



In stock

Listed 3 years ago


Vintage Gold Watches

Bayswater, GB


020 7727 7095



View Seller Shop


Seller typeTrade
Reference numberL989
ConditionVery good
ScopeWatch box, no papers
Case materialYellow gold
Bracelet materialLizard


100% Genuine & All Original

Classic Longines mid-1950s Style

Fully Inspected, Serviced & Guaranteed

18ct Gold Case in Immaculate Condition

Large Size 36mm, Excluding the Longines Signed Crown

Original, Restored Gold Dauphine Hands & Hour Indices

Beautiful Original Untouched Two-Tone Dial with Subsidiary Seconds

High-Grade Longines Cal.27 Hand-Wound Movement in Sparkling Condition

New Black Lizard Strap & Longines Gold-Plated Buckle


Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. The company is also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made. However, it has been something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity until recently. Longines is now rightfully returning towards the elevated status it once held in the pre and post-war years when it competed head to head among the very best Swiss watch manufacturers. It is really only within the past three years that Longines vintage watches have risen again to the admiration and popularity they deserve, with values rising by around 15 – 20% per year. On certain models however, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre.13ZN chronograph, prices have sky-rocketed.


Here we have an attractive and original two-tone Longines dress watch in 18ct yellow gold from 1954. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches you see on this site along with the case and movement. Here, however, because the dial has such an even patina, without any significant pitting, staining or scratches, we have decided to leave it completely untouched and as it is. Many collectors prefer this to retain the originality and charm of the watch. If however you would like to purchase this watch and have us restore it at our cost price, please let us know.

The Dial

Due to its size and fancy dial, this would have been a very expensive Longines dress watch in its day. Faceted ‘baton’ and dual faceted ‘spearhead’ hour indices are matched with the original Dauphine hands which are in superb condition. A subsidiary seconds dial complements the main dial wonderfully.

We are particular admirers of Longines dials which always seem to score more highly, regularly producing dials which are that bit closer to classic perfection. Even the name and the brand look more ‘in place’ than any other, which incidentally is the oldest registered trademark of any watch manufacturer.

The dial is totally original and untouched. Originally it would have had a light brown centre dial with a golden outer dial. This has faded fairly evenly with some freckling which many will find particularly attractive, especially in real life. It is hard to appreciate from the studio photographs how nice the dial is on the wrist in natural daylight, so we have taken a wrist shot under natural daylight for you to compare.

This is the original unrestored dial which has been left untouched to retain its originality and charm.

The Movement

This original Longines Calibre 27, 17 Jewel hand-wound movement is a real gem. As can be seen in the photographs it looks like new. This is a very high-quality movement with gold chatons and screwed balance, Swiss lever escapement, Super-shock-resistance and subsidiary seconds. This is all much admired in watchmaking circles, particularly the large, screw weighted balance wheel which provides for greater accuracy and finer adjustment. All else being equal, the larger the balance wheel, the more accurate the watch.

The Calibre 27 was derived from the hugely successful Calibre 23 introduced in 1939, which in turn was derived from the calibre 10.68Z movement that made its debut in 1932. Each of these were milestones in Longines movement development.

If ever one wished to highlight a great example of a top quality classic hand-wound watch movement, this could easily be chosen. The quality of finishing and build is exceptional and better finished than anything offered by Rolex of the same period. For example, each jewel is held in its own threaded gold sleeve, which is then in turn screwed into the plates. This is a much more sophisticated method than those which simply fitted their jewels into drilled holes in the bridges, as was the practice of Rolex and Omega of the same period.

As can be seen, the movement is in tip-top condition having just completed an overhaul and service by our watchmaker. This means it has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected under high magnification and then rebuilt using only original Longines parts where required. After testing and final calibration, this watch was running to within +6 seconds per day, which is outstanding for a vintage watch of this age. The movement also has a power reserve of 44hrs.

The movement is correctly signed ‘LONGINES’, ‘17 Jewels’ and ‘Swiss’ with the Calibre number 27 and the movement serial number 9481610 which dates the watch to 1954.

These movements are robust, reliable and accurate making this watch perfectly suited for regular everyday use. This particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing, every 3 to 5  years we would fully expect this watch to provide faithful service for many more decades to come! We are therefore more than pleased and confident to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement*

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The high-quality 18ct yellow gold three-piece watch case is superbly made with attractive curl lugs which are swept back to present the watch beautifully on the wrist. The round edge case-back is flat and blemish-free. In fact, from any viewpoint, there are no scratches, dings or other marks visible to the naked eye.

The case measures 36mm in diameter, excluding the correct Longines signed crown. The watch measures 43mm lug to lug and is quite thin at 9mm in depth, including the lens.

Inside the case-back, the case all is as expected and correctly signed ‘Longines’ with Swiss 18ct hallmarks and the reference numbers 380 and 6247 12.

This watch has obviously been very well cared for and has seen only occasional use, as evidenced by its condition which is completely scratch and blemish-free. The rest of the case has no marks, dings or scratches visible to the naked eye and has only required a professional clean and light hand-polish as part of the restoration.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The strap fitted is a new Black Lizard strap with a Longines gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock and in plain padded leather, or crocodile skin or lizard skin.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the numbers and markings on the watch are all correct, dating the watch to 1954.

A detailed written receipt with a 12 month warranty* and a separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

The Longines presentation case shown in the photographs is included with this watch.

In Conclusion

This is a beautiful vintage gold gentleman’s dress watch from one of the most collectable and ‘time honoured’ brands and this watch will make an excellent financial investment as well as be something to treasure and enjoy! It is in really excellent original condition throughout and completely practical for use as an everyday watch. Provided it is treated carefully and serviced every 2-3 years, it will last another lifetime. It carries a great deal more style, individuality and style than a modern watch and to buy the same quality today would cost many more times the price you see here.

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