Longines Cal.23ZS 14ct 1955 Guilloche Dial



In stock

Listed 3 years ago


Vintage Gold Watches

Bayswater, GB


020 7727 7095



View Seller Shop


Seller typeTrade
Reference numberL1100
ConditionVery good
ScopeWatch only
Case materialYellow gold
Bracelet materialAlligator


100% Genuine & All Original

Fully Restored, Serviced and Guaranteed

A Well Cared For & Lightly Used Example

High Grade Cal.23ZS, 17 Jewel Movement in Sparkling Condition

Beautifully Restored Ivory-Cream Dial with Guilloche Effect Outer Sector

Original Gilt Restored ‘Dauphine’ Style Hands With ‘Wedge’ hour Indices

Good-sized 33.5mm Diameter 14ct Case, excluding the Crown, In Fine Condition

Superb 14ct Solid Yellow Gold American Made ‘New York’ Signed Case

High Quality Brown Alligator Strap & Longines Gold Plated Buckle

All in Absolutely Top Grade & Simply Stunning Condition


Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. They are also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made. For a long time, something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity, Longines is now rightfully returning to the elevated status they once held in the pre and post-war years. It is only relatively recently that Longines vintage watches have returned to the admiration and popularity they deserve, with values rising on average by 15% per year. Certain models, however, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre 13ZN chronograph have sky-rocketed.

Here we have a classic example of Longines style and elegance from the early 1960s when technically, Longines competed head to head and on level terms with almost all of the top tier Swiss watch manufacturers. This is a superb example of a 1960s vintage Longines 9ct gentleman’s dress watch with subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Notable features of this watch include its unusual vertical grain ‘Explorer’ type dial and its superb Longines Calibre 370 hand-wound movement, plus its overall amazing, fully restored condition.

The Dial

A really pretty dial. In the classic Longines 1950s style, simple, clean, classy. The outer sector of the dial is raised and carries some guilloche effect and applied Wedge style hour indices. These are matched classic with the original restored Dauphine style hands. All so effortless and yet so beautiful We particularly love the minutes and seconds sector each of which is denoted by a v around the inner dial.

Longines always seems to aim and achieve higher with its dials, which we feel are that bit closer to perfection. It does this so often and so effortlessly. Even the Longines brand looks more ‘in place’, which incidentally is the oldest registered, of any watch manufacturer. The company certainly made a fine art of this during the ’50s and ’60s. Perhaps the evolution of a certain style became part of the company’s DNA, but Longines dials seem in a class of their own. This sense of style has certainly won Longines a great many loyal customers, which only later came to appreciate the accuracy and reliability of its movements.

This is the original dial which has been restored to the highest standards by the best dial restorers in the UK.

The Movement

The original Longines Calibre 23ZS, 17 Jewel hand wound movement is a real treasure, with gold chatons and screwed balance, Swiss lever escapement, Swee-seconds and Super-shock-resist. This is much admired in watchmaking circles, particularly the large, screw weighted balance wheel which allows for greater accuracy and finer adjustment. Everything else being equal, the larger the balance wheel, the more accurate the watch.

The Calibre 23ZS  was derived from the hugely successful Calibre 23M introduced in 1939, which, in turn, was derived from the calibre 10.68Z movement that had made its debut in 1932.

If ever one needed to show a great example of a top quality classic hand wound watch movement, this could easily be chosen. The quality of finishing and build is exceptional and better finished than anything offered by Rolex of the same period. Note, for example, each jewel is held in its own threaded gold sleeve, which is then in turn screwed into the plates. This is a much more sophisticated method than those which simply fitted their jewels into drilled holes in the bridges, such as was the practice of Rolex and Omega of the same period.

As can be seen, the movement is in tip-top condition having just completed an overhaul and service by our watchmaker. This means it has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected and rebuilt using only original Longines parts where required. When tested and calibrated, this watch was running to within +7 seconds per day, which is outstanding for a vintage watch of this age. This movement also has a power reserve of 44hrs. The movement is correctly signed ‘LONGINES’, ‘SWISS’ and ‘17 JEWELS’, with the Calibre number 23ZS and the movement serial number 9447895 which dates the watch to 1955.

These movements are robust, reliable and accurate making this watch perfectly suited for regular everyday use. This particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing, every 2 to 3 years we would fully expect this watch to provide faithful service for many more decades to come! We are therefore pleased and confident to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement* and all servicing in the future.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only included if the list price is paid.

The Case

The two-piece design watch case with an integral bezel is of very high quality, made in New York by DiVincenzo and Arienti, case-makers for Longines Wittnauer, the American arm of Longines, St. Imier, Switzerland.

The bezel and case-back are in superb original condition, in fact from any viewpoint, there are no scratches, dings or other marks on this case, visible to the naked eye. We have simply gently hand-polished the case as it is in superb, hardly used condition.

The case measures 33.5mm in diameter, excluding the correct Longines unsigned crown as Longines watches in 1955 did not have signed crowns. If the size perhaps seems a little small, please bear in mind the watch measures 42mm lug to lug and so the lugs add a great deal of presence to the watch.

The case-back is of full thickness and has never been engraved. The inside of the case back is stamped Longines-Wittnauer Watch Co Inc, New York, Geneva, Montreal, together with the initials D&A for DiVincenzo and Arienti, the New York based watch case makers. Also inscribed is the case serial number 07295 as well as the case reference number 727-S-724-140.

The case-back presses back with a reassuring ‘pop’ indicating it is a nice tight fit.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The strap fitted is a new Brown Alligator strap with a Longines gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock and in plain padded leather, or crocodile skin or lizard skin.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the numbers and markings on the watch are all correct, dating the watch to 1955.

A detailed written receipt with a 12 month warranty* and a separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

The Longines presentation case shown in the photographs is included with this watch.

In Conclusion

This is a beautiful vintage gold gentleman’s dress watch from one of the most collectable and ‘time-honoured’ brands and this watch will make an excellent financial investment as well as be something to treasure and enjoy! It is in really excellent original condition throughout and completely practical for use as an everyday watch. Provided it is treated carefully and serviced every 2-3 years, it will last another lifetime. It carries a great deal more style, individuality and style than a modern watch and to buy the same quality today would cost many more times the price you see here.

Offer History

No activity yet, be the first!

Ask a question

You must be logged in to submit questions