IWC Carré 18ct Gold, Cal.89 1952



In stock

Listed 3 years ago

Edited 3 years ago


Vintage Gold Watches

Bayswater, GB


020 7727 7095


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Seller typeTrade
Reference numberIWC614
ConditionVery good
ScopeWatch only
Case materialYellow Gold
Bracelet materialCrocodile


100% Genuine & All Original

Fully Restored, Serviced and Guaranteed

A Beautifully Well Cared for Rarely Used Example

Size 31mm x 42mm, excluding the Correct IWC Crown

High Quality IWC Carré Combré 18ct Yellow Gold Case

Original Yellow Gold ‘Dauphine’ Hands and Applied Batons

Iconic, High Grade  Cal.89, 17 Jewels, Hand-Wound Movement

High Quality Brandy Crocodile Strap and Gold Plated Buckle

High Quality Hardwood Presentation Box Included

Simply Stunning Condition From Every Aspect


It is said that owning a vintage IWC is something everyone with a serious interest in vintage watches should aspire to. A strong statement perhaps, but a little time spent researching IWC and their ’50s & ’60s watches, will very likely lead one to the same conclusion. In essence, this is because during the 1950s and 1960s, IWC determined they would manufacture some of the very best watches ever made, and quite simply, this is what they achieved! The craftsmanship, technical excellence and sheer beauty of their exquisite in-house movements and cases, manufactured during the ‘golden age’ of watch-making, has never been beaten – perhaps equalled occasionally, but never beaten!

An IWC is often referred to as a ‘watchmaker’s watch’. Partly because all its watches are made totally in-house, but also simply because watchmakers love them, both to work on and to own. This is due to the design, technical excellence and particularly the sheer beauty of their watch movements.

The watch here is a quite spectacular example of the original and famous IWC Carré also known as the Carré Combré ‘big square’ watch from the early 1950s. This model was revised and re-editioned in 2013 as a heritage model, leading to a resurgence of interest in these early originals. Particularly when they can be found in tip-top condition such as the example you see here. Underneath the hood we find a truly iconic movement, the IWC Cal.89 which has certainly stood the test of time, remaining in production for both civilian and military use for over 40 years!

The Movement

Many consider the IWC Cal.89 to be one of the great manually wound movements of the 20th century. The movement was originally developed in 1946 by the genius in watchmaking, Albert Pellaton, who designed this movement to meet the most demanding and highly rigorous specifications of the British Ministry of Defence. Each movement went through a 44-day testing period in five positions and ranging in temperature from -5° to +46° C. It was produced for military use continuously for over 30 years and became ‘The standard’ for military grade timepieces.  The movement also became an IWC mainstay for the commercial market, remaining in production until the mid-1990s.

We have already touched on the craftsmanship and sheer beauty of IWC movements. Some examples of the extra care and attention are the finishing applied to the bridges or plates, characterised by a series of arc-grained bars etched lightly onto bridges or plates, creating a wave-like effect. This is known as a ‘Geneva Wave’ finish. Further, all the edges of the plates are beautifully bevelled which is very difficult and time-consuming to achieve and lastly, each of the ruby jewels is set in brass ‘chantons’ which are then screwed into the plates rather than setting the jewel directly into the plates. These are just the kind of details which set IWC apart.

The movement has been fully overhauled by a Master Watchmaker. This means stripping the watch down to all its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine IWC parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment before final calibration in 5 positions. This watch therefore winds, sets and runs accurately and reliably, within 10 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions and also has a 44-hour power reserve when fully wound. Please bear in mind this is outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering 12 months warranty with this watch movement*.

The movement is all correctly signed ‘International Watch Co’ and ‘Swiss’ with both the Calibre number 89 and the serial number 1,224,268 which dates this watch to 1952.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Case

The very high quality, IWC Carré wide bezel square case in 18ct yellow gold measures 31mm across excluding the correct IWC crown. This may sound a little on the small side, but this is not so, as the watch case measure 41mm corner to corner and 42mm in length, including the lugs. The case is of a heavy two-piece design and the quality really is something special, nothing less than pure class.

The high polished full thickness case-back has never been inscribed. The body and case-back are all in beautiful condition with no scratches, dings or other damage visible to the naked eye. This watch has been carefully and lightly used and therefore after careful inspection, the case has simply required a professional clean and gentle hand-polish, to bring back the almost new look of the watch.

Inside the case-back the markings are all correct, with the period IWC Probus Scafusia signature and Swiss Geneva 18ct hallmarks. IWC’s motto is Probus Scafusia (L.), meaning “good, solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen” and was established in 1903 as the “Official Motto”. Externally the case-back carries the IWC case serial number 2243858.

The Dial

This is a beautifully understated dial in Ivory Cream with Yellow applied batons and the original, restored, yellow gold ‘Dauphine’ style hands. The dial is signed with the infinitely more attractive, early, International Watch Company, Schaffhausen signature. This is the original dial which has been sympathetically restored to the very highest standards by the best vintage watch dial restorers in the UK.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a new, very high quality Brandy Crocodile strap with a plain gold plated buckle which we feel suits the watch perfectly. However, if a different colour or different style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to provide your choice, free of charge.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the movement, case numbers and hallmarks all match, dating the watch to 1952. Detailed particulars will be included with the receipt, along with our 12 months warranty*.  A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

The hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included in the sale.

In Conclusion

This is a truly first class example of a 1952 IWC 18ct dress watch which is ready to wear and completely practical for everyday use. If treated with care it will make an excellent investment and heirloom piece. IWC will always command huge respect in the high end watch market and consequently, prices are always rock solid. We are therefore sure this will make a great addition for any collection, but also to wear, treasure and enjoy!

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